Kilimanjaro Machame Route — Lee's summit journal

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This is Lee's first-hand Machame Route journal — a guided camping climb with porters, cooks and local guides. For KINAPA park fees, operator tiers and tipping, use the cost guide and trek hub before you compare quotes.

Climbing Kilimanjaro: My 7 Stage Journey on the Machame Route

DAY 1 – MOSHI: GEAR CHECK AND FIRST IMPRESSIONS

My bestie and I had been talking about climbing Kilimanjaro for years. As South Africans, standing on Africa’s highest peak felt like a journey into our heritage – a badge of honour we wanted to earn. We had trained for months but Kilimanjaro was a monster at 5,895 meters. Despite my experience with some high altitude treks, this would be the highest I’d ever climbed. After researching different routes we chose the Machame Route. It’s known for its varied scenery and good acclimatisation profile, it’s popular, challenging and has a high summit success rate.

We boarded our flight from Cape Town, full of excitement. As we landed at Kilimanjaro International Airport I felt the excitement kick in – a strange mix of excitement and a bit of nervousness. After collecting our gear we drove to Moshi, the busy town that is the gateway to Mount Kilimanjaro. It’s a rough around the edges kind of place. The buildings looked tired, like they’d seen better days but there was a strong, unbreakable vibe in the air. People here seemed happy, warm and kind.

At the hotel we met our guides for the first time. They would be our lifeline on this journey and their experience was immediately comforting. They went through our gear with a fine tooth comb, recommending a few extra things we hadn’t thought to bring. It was clear they wanted us to be prepared for anything the mountain might throw at us. Luckily they had rental gear which saved us a lot of hassle. With everything ready we set out to explore a bit of Moshi that evening. We found a small, busy restaurant where we had local food and soaked up the town’s atmosphere. A musician was playing a soulful tune in the corner, adding the perfect soundtrack to the start of our adventure.

DAY 2 – MACHAME CAMP: ENTERING THE RAINFOREST

We woke up early, that mix of excitement and nerves only a big adventure can bring. After breakfast the hotel staff loaded us into a rickety old bus – one of those classic African taxis that have seen it all. It was full of character and we stopped a few times on the way to pick up supplies for the trek: fresh fruit, bags of rice and pasta.

When we arrived at the Machame Gate it was chaos. There were people everywhere – climbers, guides, porters, cooks. We soon realised how lucky we were to have a company managing all this. After a bit of waiting and more organising we were introduced to our support team. We were just the two of us climbing but we had two guides and a team of about 10 porters, cooks and helpers. Seeing how much equipment and food they would carry for us was humbling – these were the real heroes of Kilimanjaro.

With everything loaded and ready we finally went through the gate and into the rainforest. The first part of the climb felt familiar, like the forests back in South Africa. The rainforest canopy above us was lush and green. The air was thick and humid and within minutes I was dripping with sweat. Our guides looked a bit worried but this was just my body’s way of adapting – I always sweat a lot in humid climates.

As we climbed the excitement settled and we found our pace. The trail was muddy from recent rain so every step was a bit of a balancing act. Every so often we’d hear a rustle in the branches and catch a glimpse of blue and colobus monkeys swinging through the trees. Their antics were perfect distraction from the climb and soon we were surrounded by dense greenery with only the sounds of nature around us.

About 5 hours in we started to get glimpses through the canopy and as we climbed higher the views opened up. Each break in the trees felt like a reward and we’d stop to take it all in – a chance to appreciate the journey we’d started and the mountain still so far above us. There was a quiet happiness between my friend and I as we walked along, sharing this adventure and these views.

When we arrived at Machame Camp we were relieved to see our tents already set up thanks to our amazing crew. They greeted us with big smiles, snacks and hot tea which tasted like heaven after the long day. The only downside was the communal bathroom situation. With hundreds of hikers sharing a few basic facilities let’s just say it wasn’t exactly the highlight of the experience. Pro tip: if you can opt for a tour that includes a private portable toilet. I never thought I’d call a portable toilet a luxury but out here it absolutely is!

DAY 3 – SHIRA CAMP: INTO THE MOORLANDS

Day 3 started with a deeper introduction to our trekking team, who were now like family. After breakfast the guides told us to go “pole pole” – Swahili for “slowly, slowly” – which was becoming our new motto. Today’s distance was short but the elevation gain was big and we needed to take it slow to acclimatise to the thinner air.

As we set off we left the rainforest behind and the landscape changed dramatically. The jungle gave way to high altitude moorland, with rolling hills covered in giant heather and tall grasses. The familiar smell of plants and shrubs made us feel like we were back in Cape Town surrounded by fynbos. It was strange and comforting at the same time – Kilimanjaro felt like an old friend despite being so foreign.

As we climbed higher the effects of the altitude became more pronounced. My heart was racing with each step, despite us walking slow. There was a quiet awareness growing that this wasn’t just about endurance but about adapting to the mountain itself. We could feel our bodies working harder, our breathing quicker and our legs feeling heavier. It was humbling but the views made every step worth it. With each glance Kilimanjaro revealed new angles and we started to understand why they call it the “roof of Africa.”

Shira Camp was on a plateau with stunning views and the summit of Kilimanjaro poking out in the distance, towering above us. Seeing the summit for the first time from camp was a big moment – it was exciting and a little scary. This was getting real in a way that left us both inspired and speechless.

As we settled in Alexis had a small epiphany – he had left his beanie at the hotel. By now the temperature had dropped significantly and the nighttime lows were around -2 degrees Celsius. We laughed it off and scrambled to find extra layers and even borrowed a spare hat from one of the porters. It was an early lesson in Kilimanjaro’s weather extremes and the unpredictability of mountain life.

DAY 4 – SHIRA CAMP TO LAVA TOWER TO BARRANCO CAMP

Day 4 felt like a new climb and one that would really test us. Leaving Shira Camp we knew we were going into higher altitudes and could start to feel the effects of thin air. This was the point where altitude sickness could start to creep up on us so we were extra careful to follow the guides’ advice to take it slow and drink as much water as we could. Pole pole was more important than ever.

As we started to climb to Lava Tower the landscape changed dramatically. The forests and heather fields were gone – we were now in an alpine desert, surrounded by rocky terrain that felt barren and endless. The ground was littered with volcanic rocks and boulders, it was like nothing we had ever seen before. The western glaciers of Kibo came into view and Kilimanjaro’s sheer size took our breath away. Every step was a reminder of how small we were in this harsh, beautiful place.

We reached Lava Tower at around 4,600m (15,000ft) and it was a big deal for Alexis as he had never been this high before. For me it was similar to the Inca Trail which also gets to this altitude but Kilimanjaro felt like a whole new animal. The air was thinner, our breaths shorter, our legs heavier. We stopped at Lava Tower to take in the views, feeling proud and a bit nervous for what was still to come. It was surreal and humbling standing on this volcanic plug surrounded by sheer rock walls and a barren landscape that went on forever.

After Lava Tower we descended to Barranco Valley and this “climb high, sleep low” tactic was key to our bodies adapting to the altitude. Despite the descent it was still a tough trek as we made our way down rocky trails to Barranco Camp. The change in altitude felt good but the descent was just as hard on our legs. As we approached camp the Barranco Wall loomed ahead – a big obstacle for the next day.

That night it dropped to -10 degrees and we were layered up in every piece of clothing we had. Alexis and I laughed as we were turning into walking sleeping bags, wrapped in hats, gloves and scarves just to stay warm.

DAY 5 – BARRANCO CAMP TO BARAFU HIGH CAMP

Day 5 started with the guides calling it the “breakfast wall” – a steep climb up Barranco Wall right after breakfast. I mean, who starts the day with a wall? But it was both exciting and intimidating. The wall looked like a cliff, but the guides told us it was not technical, just a bit of scrambling.

As we started climbing, the trekkie camaraderie kicked in. We cheered each other on as we made our way up, holding onto rocks and taking each step carefully. At times I had to remind myself not to look down. The air was thin, making it feel like twice the work, but reaching the top was awesome. We did a few push-ups at the top of the wall, feeling like we were on top of the world (or at least close enough!). The views from the top were stunning – Kilimanjaro was so close, yet so far.

We descended into the Karanga Valley and stopped for lunch. The valley was barren and dry, a reminder of how high we were, as the vegetation was sparse and the ground was more rock than soil. The sense of isolation was stronger here and the mountain felt big and intimidating. The temperature had dropped and with every break I could feel the cold seeping in more.

After lunch we continued on to Barafu High Camp. The trail went through a rocky, barren landscape, typical of the alpine desert zone. No trees, no big plants, just the occasional tuft of grass and an endless expanse of volcanic rock. It was both beautiful and eerie – we felt like we were on another planet.

By the time we got to Barafu Camp we were tired but hyped. This was our last camp before the summit push and the excitement was building. At 4,640 meters (15,223 feet) Barafu is the highest camp on Kilimanjaro and it was cold. The air was crisp and the mountain was above us, like it was daring us to finish what we started.

We gathered for a briefing, our guides went over the plan for summit night. We would start at midnight and aim to reach the summit by sunrise. Hiking in the pitch black at high altitude felt like a dream. We were nervous but determined. We had been lucky with the weather so far and we hoped it would continue.

As late afternoon arrived we crawled into our tents and tried to sleep as much as we could. Tomorrow was the day we had all been waiting for, the reason we had come so far. I lay there in the cold surrounded by the quiet of Barafu and felt a sense of calm determination.

DAY 6 – SUMMIT NIGHT: BARAFU CAMP TO UHURU PEAK AND DOWN TO MWEKA CAMP

Summit day had finally arrived and we started in the dark and cold of the night. At midnight we put on every piece of clothing we had. The air was sharp and the wind was biting and it felt like -20. The stars were brilliant above but every step felt like a battle against the cold and fatigue. Our water bottles froze within an hour, a harsh reminder of what we were in for.

The climb to the mount Kilimanjaro summit was a 6 hour grind up a steep series of switchbacks. The path was ok but at this altitude even small steps were exhausting. Above 5000m breathing was slow and laboured, each breath felt like it wasn’t filling my lungs. It was a mental game as much as physical – left foot, right foot, repeat. Time lost all meaning in the thin, icy air and every few steps felt like the summit was still miles away.

Finally after what felt like hours in a dream our guide said the summit was near. But we had moved faster than expected it was still an hour before sunrise. I wanted to reach the top of Africa at dawn so I convinced the team to keep moving to stay warm. We walked back and forth along the trail to keep the chill at bay as we waited for first light.

Then as if on cue the sky started to glow. We climbed the final few steps to Stella Point and felt the incredible relief of being on the summit rim. From here it was a flat walk to Uhuru Peak, the highest point in Africa. Finally we arrived at Uhuru Peak and as the sun broke over the glacier and cast its light over the barren landscape it felt like we were on another planet. It was surreal – icy winds, an ancient glacier beside us and an expanse of red earth. We were standing on top of Africa and the moment was a blur of awe and pride.

But the cold was biting and even our phone batteries had given up in the extreme temperatures. We took quick photos with the GoPro of our frozen faces and the summit backdrop before we turned to start the descent. As we left the summit a wave of emotions hit us. Exhaustion, joy and gratitude mixed into a sense of disbelief and tears that we had actually done it.

The descent was quicker but no less demanding. We pushed past Barafu Camp and all the way to Mweka Camp where the air felt thick with oxygen compared to what we had grown used to. Every step down felt like a rebirth, every breath deeper and easier.

Along the way we saw others struggling or turning back, getting altitude sickness which we had luckily avoided. It was a harsh reminder of how unforgiving the mountain was and how important it was to listen to your body.

When we finally arrived at Mweka Camp our team was waiting for us with songs and dancing – a party to celebrate what we had achieved together. In the golden light of afternoon surrounded by people who had become like family it finally hit us. We had climbed Kilimanjaro. The mountain had tested us, pushed us to our limits but we had made it and we had the memories to last a lifetime.

DAY 7 – THE FINAL DESCENT: MWEKA CAMP TO MOSHI

After breakfast we started our descent from Mweka Camp and the mountain slowly let us back into the world. This descent was a world away from our high altitude days. We walked at a leisurely pace, chatting and laughing as we made our way through the damp and lush forest.

As we approached Mweka Gate our group felt lighter and more triumphant. There our guides presented us with certificates – a simple piece of paper but so powerful as a proof of what we had achieved and the mental and physical challenges we had overcome. Holding that certificate felt surreal – it was the mountain’s way of saying – You did it.

When we got to the hotel we were greeted with warm showers and clean clothes – a luxury after days of roughing it on the trail. That night we had a farewell dinner with our guides and porters. These people had become more than a team – they were friends who had carried us, inspired us and in many ways kept us grounded during the toughest moments.

REFLECTIONS

I had always wanted to climb Kilimanjaro but the reality was so much more than that. This was about more than just summiting Africa’s highest mountain; it was about being resilient and trusting in the high and low moments. It tested us in ways we never knew and yet gave us moments of quiet, awe and pure happiness. Climbing with one of my best friends made it even more special, the bond formed through the mountain’s challenges.

In many ways this was like a boxing match – round after round of challenge, endurance and grit, overcoming each hurdle until we could say we had won. Standing on the summit was the knockout punch, the victory we had trained for. Kilimanjaro gave me a memory for life, a humbling reminder of nature’s power and our own inner strength. I know now when life throws its challenges I can look back at this mountain and find the strength to keep climbing.

Official resources

Cross-check dates, fees and trail rules with primary sources before you travel:

Kilimanjaro National Park (TANAPA) · Tanzania Tourism Board

Planning sequence for Kilimanjaro

Kilimanjaro is about 7 days, challenging overall difficulty — wild camping or designated campsites in Tanzania.

Kilimanjaro is Africa’s highest mountain (Uhuru Peak 5,895 m). Lee’s first-hand account covers the Machame Route as a guided camping climb over a seven-stage itinerary — not a self-guided European hut trek.

Work in this order: permits and dates, transport, accommodation, packing, then day-by-day food. Skipping straight to gear lists is how flights get booked that do not match hut or campsite availability.

Fact	Detail
Start	Machame Gate
End	Mweka Gate
Duration	~7 days
High point	~5,895 m
Difficulty	challenging
Style	wild camping or designated campsites

Decision checklist for Kilimanjaro

• Verify official rules before non-refundable bookings
• Use linked tools for packing and cost models

Continue planning Kilimanjaro

Kilimanjaro Accommodation: Camps & Moshi Hotels · Kilimanjaro Cost Guide: Budget in USD · How Hard Is Kilimanjaro? Difficulty & Altitude Guide · Kilimanjaro Food Guide: Camp Meals & Trail Snacks · Getting to Kilimanjaro: Flights, Moshi & Machame Gate · Kilimanjaro Itinerary: 7-Day Machame Route · Trek overview

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