Tour Du Mont Blanc Self Guided: The Complete Guide

Are you dreaming of an adventure that combines breathtaking views, physical challenges, and the freedom of exploration? The Tour Du Mont Blanc hike might just be the perfect escape for you. Self guided tours offer the flexibility and enjoyment of walking at your own pace while taking in the stunning alpine scenery across three countries. But planning a self-guided trip can seem daunting. How do you ensure you’re prepared for such an epic journey?

Don’t worry—we’ve got you covered! In this complete guide, we’ll break down everything you need to know for a successful Tour Du Mont Blanc self-guided experience. We’ll share the itinerary we followed, along with all the essential planning tips and tricks. This guide is perfect for those looking to organize their own self-guided walking holiday, giving you the freedom to explore at your own pace. Embark on a journey that promises unforgettable memories and a profound connection with nature.

What is the Tour Du Mont Blanc?

The Tour Du Mont Blanc, affectionately known as the TMB, is one of the most iconic long-distance hikes in the world. This legendary trail takes adventurous souls on a journey through the heart of the European Alps, winding through three countries—France, Italy, and Switzerland. Spanning approximately 170 kilometers (about 105 miles), gaining over 10,000m (32,800 feet) of elevation gain, the TMB is a loop that encircles Western Europe’s highest mountain, Mont Blanc, standing tall at 4,810 meters (15,781 feet).

A Journey Through Diverse Landscapes

The Tour Du Mont Blanc offers hikers an ever-changing landscape that feels like stepping into a series of postcards. You’ll traverse verdant valleys filled with wildflowers, navigate rocky alpine passes, and wander through serene forests. Along the way, the hiking trails reveal breathtaking panoramas of glacial lakes, cascading waterfalls, and snow-capped peaks. Each section of the TMB offers its own unique charm, ensuring that no two days are the same. Mont Blanc treks are particularly appealing to nature enthusiasts and those seeking a multi-day challenge.

A Cultural Experience

More than just a trek through stunning scenery, the TMB is a cultural odyssey that immerses you in the rich traditions and hospitality of the regions it passes through. Each country along the trail offers a distinct taste of alpine culture. From savoring French cheeses and Italian pasta to Swiss chocolates, the culinary delights are as diverse as the landscapes. You’ll also have the opportunity to stay in quaint villages and rustic mountain huts, where you can engage with locals and fellow hikers from around the world.

Main Route

The classic route of Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) is a well-marked loop of about 170 kilometers (105 miles) that circles the Mont Blanc Massif. It starts and ends in Les Houches, France, taking hikers through France, Italy, and Switzerland.

The French section begins in Les Houches, featuring scenic valleys and high mountain passes like the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme.

In Italy, the route crosses at the Col de la Seigne, descending into Val Veny and Courmayeur with stunning views.

The Swiss section enters via the Grand Col Ferret, winding through the Swiss Val Ferret and villages like La Fouly.

The final stages return to France via the Col de Balme, with views of the Chamonix Valley.

Route Variations

While the main Tour du Mont Blanc route offers a spectacular experience, several alternative routes allow you to customize your trek, either to add a challenge or avoid difficult sections due to weather or personal preference. Note that these variations are best attempted in good weather, with downloaded maps, and a reasonable fitness level. Safety first!

The Fenêtre d’Arpette: A challenging alternative to the Bovine route from Champex-Lac to Trient, this high mountain pass offers breathtaking views. It is ideal for experienced hikers who enjoy a more adventurous path.

Lacs Jovet: From Les Contamines to Les Chapieux, detour to the serene Lacs Jovet, two alpine lakes offering a peaceful escape from the main trail.

Col des Fours: An alternative high-altitude path from Les Chapieux to the Col du Bonhomme, providing a solitary experience and stunning views.

Val Ferret Shortcut: Save time by bypassing La Fouly through the Swiss Val Ferret, cutting a day off the trek.

Mont de la Saxe Ridge: For spectacular views, take the ridge route from Rifugio Bonatti to Courmayeur. It’s more demanding but offers exceptional Mont Blanc vistas.

The Tour Du Mont Blanc Route: Our 11-Stage Itinerary

We mostly followed the classic 11-day itinerary, while replacing day 2 with a variant to Refuge Robert Blanc. This 11-stage itinerary breaks down the 170km (103-mile) journey into manageable sections, allowing you to savor every breathtaking view and cultural experience along the way.

Getting There

We kicked off our adventure at Les Houches, France, the traditional starting point for the Tour Du Mont Blanc. Like most, we opted to stay in the nearby town of Chamonix in the French Alps, which offers more accommodation options—and it’s absolutely stunning!

Our journey began with a flight to Geneva Airport (from Amsterdam), the closest major airport, located about 88 kilometers (55 miles) from Les Houches. From Geneva, we took a pre-booked bus to Chamonix, operated by companies like AlpyBus and SAT Mont Blanc. The direct transfer took about 1.5 to 2 hours and cost around 20 euros per person.

While Les Houches is a popular starting point, the beauty of the Tour Du Mont Blanc is that you can customize your journey. Here are some alternative starting points:

1. Courmayeur, Italy: Nestled on the Italian side of Mont Blanc, Courmayeur is a popular starting point for those coming from Italy. You can fly into Milan Malpensa Airport (MXP), which is about 217 kilometers (135 miles) from Courmayeur. From Milan or Turin, you can take a FlixBus or other bus services, which offer regular connections to Courmayeur. The journey typically takes about 3 to 4 hours.
2. Champex-Lac, Switzerland: For those approaching from Switzerland, the picturesque village of Champex-Lac offers a quieter starting point. From Geneva or Zurich, take a train to Martigny, transfer to a local train to Orsières, and then a bus to Champex-Lac. The total travel time is around 3 to 4 hours. Alternatively, from Martigny, you can use local buses, taking about 30 to 45 minutes.

Stage 0: Chamonix

Chamonix is a charming and walkable mountain town brimming with bars, restaurants, and a wide array of hiking shops. While we brought all our gear with us, you could easily purchase most of your hiking essentials in Chamonix, thanks to its extensive selection. The town is also a bustling hub for adventure enthusiasts, offering activities like skiing, hiking, and mountain biking during the summer months when the snow has melted.

The town offers a variety of accommodation options, ranging from campsites and hostels to luxury hotels. We opted for a mid ranged-budget hotel with stunning views of Mont Blanc, which also included breakfast the next morning—a highly recommended choice. We spent the day exploring the town, soaking in the beautiful sights, and preparing our bags for the trek ahead.

Hotel: Chalet Hôtel Le Prieuré & Spa (150 euros)

Stage 1: Les Houches to Refuge Nant Borrant (18km, 900m elevation gain)

After a hearty breakfast at the hotel, we set off on our journey. To reach the official starting point of the Tour Du Mont Blanc in Les Houches, you have two options: taking a local bus or a train. We chose the train, which offers scenic views but requires a bit of an uphill walk to reach the trailhead. The charm and accessibility of the mountain towns, like Chamonix, make them essential stops for adventure seekers.

At the start of the hike, you have two choices. Option 1 is a challenging, steep hike up a hill for about 6–8 kilometers. Option 2 is to take a cable car (which you will pass on the trail) and skip the first big hill, the more popular choice. We opted for the cable car to ease into day one.

The first day is about finding your rhythm. The trail is moderate, with some elevation gain, but nothing too serious. We encountered a bit of rain, but thankfully, our rain gear kept us dry. As we hiked, we passed through charming French villages and stopped for lunch at a local restaurant. One of the great things about this hike is the availability of food at refuges or restaurants along the way, which helps keep your pack weight down.

After lunch, we continued through more picturesque French towns and came across an adorable church. To end the day, we faced a big climb to reach our refuge, Nant Borrant.

A quick note about accommodations: In France, they are called refuges, which are mountain hostels that allow hikers to stay. In Italy, they are called rifugios. You typically stay in dorm-style rooms with 6–12 other people, often sleeping in bunk beds, with limited private rooms available at a higher cost. You are usually required to have at least a sleeping bag liner. You can choose to have breakfast and dinner included, which we highly recommend.

Despite a few sick people in our dorm, the refuge itself was very nice, and I think it was one of the best on the whole trail.

Refuge: Nant Borrant (57 euros per person for a dorm – includes Half Board)

Highlights

• Panoramic Views: As you ascend from Les Houches, enjoy the panoramic views of the Chamonix Valley and the surrounding peaks.
• Alpine Meadows: The trail passes through lush alpine meadows, dotted with wildflowers during the summer months.
• Rustic Chalets: Throughout the stage, you’ll pass by traditional chalets and farmhouses, offering a glimpse into the rural life of the French Alps.

Things to Do

• Visit the Baroque Church of Saint-Nicolas de Véroce: If time permits, explore this beautifully preserved Baroque church in the nearby village of Saint-Nicolas. Its intricate interior and historical significance make it worth a visit.
• Stop at Bionnassay Glacier: As you hike, take a detour to enjoy a close-up view of the Bionnassay Glacier. This magnificent glacier is a highlight of the region, offering a glimpse into the dramatic ice formations of the Alps.
• Picnic at Col de Voza: This mountain pass is a great spot to take a break and enjoy a picnic while soaking in the stunning views. It’s an ideal place to rest and refuel before continuing your ascent.
• Hike to Refuge de Miage: If you have time, take a side trip to the Refuge de Miage, located in the Miage Valley. This refuge offers delicious local dishes and a chance to relax in a picturesque setting.

Stage 2: Refuge Nant Borrant to Refuge Robert Blanc (18km, 2050m elevation gain)

Day two began with some muscle stiffness as our bodies adjusted to the demands of the trail. This was when our adventure truly began. Our pre-trip research, mostly from YouTube, had highlighted a stunning refuge called Robert Blanc, perched high in the mountains at an altitude of 2,750 meters. To reach it, we decided to take the variant route on day two.

A variant is essentially a detour from the normal route, typically more challenging but offering amazing views if the weather cooperates. We recommend attempting variants only in good weather. We decided to tackle this variant over days two and three.

Luckily, we had perfect weather. The trail gradually led us through rocky terrain, steadily climbing higher. We arrived at a beautiful lake, where we took an early lunch break. Then the real challenge began: the trail became steeper and rockier, triggering my fear of heights. We finally reached the top and celebrated our success. As Karen likes to say, “Too soon, Lee, too soon.”

That’s when I made a mistake. Instead of following my downloaded map, we decided to follow some trail markings, which led us down the wrong side of the mountain. We had to descend completely and find our way back up, making for an extremely long day.

Exhausted and with darkness setting in, we finally reached the refuge. A note about Robert Blanc: it is very remote, with no showers and limited running water, so it’s quite basic.

Too tired to fully appreciate the views, we ordered some beers to calm our nerves, ate a hearty meal, and went to bed early.

Refuge: Robert Blanc (57 euros per person for a dorm – includes Half Board)

Highlights

• Valley Views: The early part of the stage offers beautiful views down the valley, with the morning light casting a golden hue over the landscape.
• Rocky Terrain: The approach to Refuge Robert Blanc becomes rockier and more challenging, with stunning geological formations that highlight the raw beauty of the Alps.
• High-Altitude Landscapes: As you near Refuge Robert Blanc, the trail opens up to sweeping vistas of the surrounding peaks and glaciers, creating a dramatic and awe-inspiring atmosphere.
• Col du Bonhomme: This stage includes a climb over the Col du Bonhomme at 2,329 meters (7,641 feet). This mountain pass is a significant point on the trail, offering spectacular views and a sense of achievement.

Things to Do

• Visit the Chapel of Notre-Dame de la Gorge: Before leaving the valley, take a moment to visit this charming Baroque chapel. It’s a peaceful spot to reflect and enjoy some stunning architecture.
• Explore Lac Jovet: Consider a detour to the serene Lac Jovet, a pair of alpine lakes surrounded by lush greenery and stunning mountain views. It’s a perfect spot for a lunch break or a peaceful rest.
• Photography at Col des Fours: As you pass through Col des Fours, take advantage of the panoramic views for some breathtaking photos.

Stage 3: Refuge Robert Blanc to Rifugio Elisabetta (8km, 330m elevation gain)

We woke up on day three feeling a bit better, relieved that the challenges of the previous day were behind us, and anticipating a shorter, easier trek.

After a basic breakfast, we finally took in the stunning views from our remote refuge. The effort to reach this point was absolutely worth it. The weather was beautiful once again, which lifted our spirits.

Determined to avoid any more detours, we decided to stick to my maps, no matter what. Only one other couple was heading our way, and they were fast, so we found ourselves hiking alone. This day was a true test of our nerves, featuring steep downhills with loose rocks, exposed gorges, and precarious mountain pathways. With no one else around, we had to stay fully present and rely on each other. The trail was extremely technical and took us a long time to complete.

One of the highlights of the day was crossing from France into Italy. Bonjour, France—ciao, Italy! Crossing borders on foot is such a unique experience. The cultural shift is noticeable, and the landscapes are breathtaking. After this exhilarating part of the hike, we made our way to our next stop—Rifugio Elisabetta.

We loved Rifugio Elisabetta. It was lively, the food was amazing, and the wine was delicious. Who doesn’t love Italy? We met some wonderful people there, many of whom we would see throughout the rest of our journey.

Refugio: Elisabetta (58 euros per person, including half board)

Highlights

• Mont Blanc Massif Views: As you descend from Robert Blanc, enjoy spectacular views of the Mont Blanc Massif, with its towering peaks and expansive glaciers.
• Vistas of the Italian Alps: Crossing into Italy, the scenery shifts to include views of the Italian Alps, offering a new perspective and landscape.
• Glacier de la Lex Blanche: The trail offers views of the Glacier de la Lex Blanche, a stunning glacier that highlights the region’s glacial history and beauty. This part of the trek is especially breathtaking during sunrise or sunset.
• Col de la Seigne: This stage includes crossing the Col de la Seigne at 2,516 meters (8,255 feet), marking the border between France and Italy. The pass offers panoramic views of the surrounding peaks and is a significant milestone on the TMB.

Things to Do

• Photography at Col de la Seigne: Take time to capture the breathtaking views from the Col de la Seigne. The panorama includes views of Mont Blanc, the Aiguille des Glaciers, and the Italian Alps.
• Explore Lac Combal: Before reaching Rifugio Elisabetta, consider a short detour to Lac Combal, a glacial lake with stunning reflections of the surrounding mountains. It’s a perfect spot for a rest and some photography.

Stage 4: Rifugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur (17km, 850m elevation gain)

Day four took us to Courmayeur. The morning started cold and windy, with the constant sound of cowbells echoing through the epic mountains and beautiful lakes—a signature of the TMB experience.

We tackled a long, steep hill, battling winds that seemed determined to blow us off the mountain. But as we got closer to Courmayeur, the skies cleared, and the sun embraced us warmly. Entering this bustling mountain town, we immediately went on the hunt for gelato, our favorite post-hike treat. Afterward, we spent some time exploring the charming streets, resupplying our gear, and indulging in some delicious Italian pizza. It is a great town for also doing some basics, like laundry!

It was the perfect blend of challenge and reward. We were thrilled to spend the next two nights in beautiful hotels, enjoying the luxury of our own room, bathroom, and a hearty breakfast each morning.

Hotel: iH Hotels Courmayeur Mont Blanc (170 euros for room, including breakfast)

Highlights

• Mont Blanc Views: As you descend towards Courmayeur, enjoy sweeping views of the Mont Blanc Massif and the Grandes Jorasses, some of the most iconic peaks in the Alps.
• Courmayeur’s History: Courmayeur is one of Italy’s oldest alpine resorts, known for its historic charm and as a gateway to the Italian Alps.

Things to Do

• Explore Val Veny: Take time to explore the beautiful Val Veny, with its clear streams, wildflower meadows, and views of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey.
• Visit the Botanic Garden: Near La Visaille, the Saussurea Alpine Botanic Garden is one of the highest in Europe, featuring over 800 plant species native to the Alps and other mountain ranges worldwide.
• Enjoy Italian Cuisine: Once in Courmayeur, indulge in the local cuisine. The town is renowned for its restaurants and cafes, where you can savor Italian delicacies like pasta, polenta, and gelato.
• Relax in Courmayeur’s Spa: After a long day of hiking, consider relaxing at one of Courmayeur’s spas or thermal baths. The Pré-Saint-Didier Spa offers a range of wellness treatments, perfect for soothing tired muscles.

Stage 5: Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti (15km, 1100m elevation gain)

On day five, we set out for Rifugio Bonatti. Unfortunately, the rifugio was fully booked, so we couldn’t stay the night there and had to plan to take a bus back to Courmayeur. Because of this, Karen decided to leave her bag behind and travel light for the day, which made her a very happy hiker.

This section of the trail was incredibly beautiful. As usual, we climbed over 1000 meters, but the stunning views made every step worth it. We felt truly blessed as we sat, eating our leftover pizza and watching other hikers and even some runners pass by.

By day five, we had found our rhythm and fallen in love with the daily routine: waking up, having breakfast, packing, walking, finding a rifugio, and then repeating it all over again the next day. When we reached Bonatti, we enjoyed a nice beer while taking in the views, and then walked back down the mountain to catch a bus back to Courmayeur. We ended the day with a wonderful evening of Italian dining, enjoying some well-deserved “wine and recline” time.

Hotel: Hotel Ottoz Meublé (127 euros per room, including breakfast)

Highlights

• Mont Blanc Massif Views: As you ascend from Courmayeur, enjoy sweeping views of the Mont Blanc Massif and the Grandes Jorasses. The trail offers some of the most picturesque panoramas on the TMB.
• Dramatic Peaks: The views of the Aiguille Noire and the Dent du Géant are particularly striking, providing a dramatic contrast to the verdant valleys.
• Val Ferret: This beautiful valley is known for its stunning views of the Grandes Jorasses and the Mont Blanc Massif.
• Rifugio Bonatti’s Namesake: Rifugio Bonatti is named after the legendary Italian mountaineer Walter Bonatti, famous for his solo climbs and contributions to alpine exploration.

Things to Do

• Val Ferret Hike: As you leave Courmayeur, enjoy a scenic hike through Val Ferret. This valley offers panoramic views of the surrounding peaks and is a great place to appreciate the natural beauty of the Italian Alps.
• Lunch at Rifugio Bertone: Stop for lunch at Rifugio Bertone, a popular rest point offering delicious Italian food and stunning views of the Mont Blanc range.

Stage 6: Rifugio Bonatti to La Fouly (16km, 840m elevation gain)

On day six, we made our way back to Rifugio Bonatti and headed toward Switzerland! While we were sad to leave Italy, we were excited about the next part of our journey. This day was full of ups and downs, both physically and mentally.

The transition from Italy to Switzerland offered breathtaking views, but progress was slow. We faced long, steep uphills, crowded trails, and even some cows blocking our path. It was a real mental challenge to reach the border.

Once we crossed into Switzerland, the landscapes became even more stunning, almost too perfect to be real. It was our first time in Switzerland, and it did not disappoint. We eventually reached a lunch stop, enjoyed a beer, and soaked in the incredible scenery.

However, as we continued, Karen hurt her leg, possibly from shin splints. After a quick repack and shifting most of the pack weight to me, we continued at a slower pace.

We ended our day in La Fouly, a charming little town so small you can walk through it in just a few steps. We checked into our dorm at the Refugio, met some amazing new friends from Australia, and enjoyed some not-so-great aperitifs, fine wine, and delicious food.

Refuge: Auberge des Glaciers (97 CHF per person, Half Board) – Switzerland is expensive!

Highlights

• Views of Mont Dolent: As you hike, you’ll enjoy stunning views of Mont Dolent, a peak that marks the tripoint between Italy, France, and Switzerland.
• Swiss Valleys: The descent into Switzerland offers sweeping views of the Val Ferret, with its rolling hills and lush forests.
• Grand Col Ferret: The trail crosses the Grand Col Ferret, at 2,537 meters (8,323 feet), marking the border between Italy and Switzerland. This high mountain pass offers breathtaking views and is one of the highlights of the TMB.
• Val Ferret: As you leave Rifugio Bonatti, you’ll trek through the picturesque Val Ferret, which is renowned for its stunning vistas of the surrounding peaks, including the Grandes Jorasses and Mont Dolent.
• Swiss Customs: Upon crossing into Switzerland, you’ll notice cultural shifts, from architecture to language, as you move into the French-speaking region of Valais.
• La Fouly: Nestled in the Val Ferret, La Fouly is known for its stunning backdrop of Mont Dolent and its quaint alpine charm.

Things to Do.

• Cross the Grand Col Ferret: Take time to enjoy the panoramic views from the Grand Col Ferret.
• Visit Ferret and Praz de Fort: As you descend into Switzerland, pass through the charming villages of Ferret and Praz de Fort.
• Explore La Fouly: Once in La Fouly, take some time to explore this quaint village. It’s a great place to relax and enjoy the peaceful Swiss countryside.

Stage 7: La Fouly to Champex-Lac (16km, 550m elevation gain)

The next day started off rainy and cold, but as we began walking, the skies cleared, and it turned into another stunning day. Many people said this was their least favorite part of the trail, but for me, it was one of the best.

Hiking through the Swiss countryside felt like stepping into a fairy tale. Everywhere we looked, there were picture-perfect mountains, charming villages, and pristine landscapes. We took our time, savoring every moment as we made our way to Champex-Lac, a beautiful town nestled by a serene lake.

We were thrilled to find out we had a hotel booked for the night, and it even included dinner! This was a blessing as we soon discovered how expensive Switzerland can be. We bought the smallest bottle of 500ml red wine, which cost us 30 euros—the cheapest on the menu. Despite the price, it was worth it. The food was divine, and having our own room and bathroom after so many days of hiking felt like pure luxury.

Hotel: Hotel Du Glacier (170 CHF per room, including breakfast and dinner)

Highlights

• Val Ferret Landscapes: The trail meanders through the picturesque Val Ferret, offering lush meadows, dense forests, and sweeping views of the surrounding mountains.
• Views of Mont Dolent: Enjoy distant views of Mont Dolent, a prominent peak in the region.
• Swiss Architecture: As you hike through the region, you’ll notice traditional Swiss architecture, including wooden chalets with flower-filled balconies.
• Champex-Lac: This idyllic town is located by a beautiful alpine lake, offering a tranquil setting and a variety of outdoor activities. Champex-Lac is sometimes referred to as the “Little Canada of Switzerland” due to its stunning natural beauty.

Things to Do

• Explore Swiss Villages: As you hike through the Val Ferret, take time to explore the charming Swiss villages of Praz de Fort and Issert.
• Visit the Champex-Lac Botanical Garden: Once you arrive in Champex-Lac, visit the Flore-Alpe Botanical Garden, which features a diverse collection of alpine plants and offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains.
• Enjoy the Lake: Take a relaxing stroll around Champex-Lac or rent a rowboat to explore the lake.

Stage 8: Champex-Lac to Trient (17km, 800m elevation gain)

Today’s hike was tough but incredibly rewarding. As usual, we faced a big climb, but we were surrounded by breathtaking scenery the entire way. When we reached the top, we decided to reward ourselves with a local treat—Swiss fondue! As we sat waiting for our meal, the clouds rolled in, and it got a bit chilly. This made the warm, rich fondue taste even better.

For the rest of the day, we continued downhill through forest-lined paths until we reached Trient and checked into our dorm for the evening.

Refuge: Auberge du Mont Blanc (68 CHF per person, Half Board)

Highlights

• Panoramic Views from Fenêtre d’Arpette: For those taking the Fenêtre d’Arpette route, the views from the top are spectacular, with sweeping vistas of the surrounding peaks and valleys.
• Rhone Valley Views: As you approach Trient, there are amazing views of the Rhone Valley, with its rolling hills and charming villages.
• Bovine Route vs. Fenêtre d’Arpette: Hikers can choose between two routes for this stage. The Bovine Route is less challenging, with moderate terrain and stunning pastoral views, while the Fenêtre d’Arpette is a more demanding variant offering dramatic views from a high mountain pass. Weather conditions should be considered when choosing this latter route.
• Swiss Dairy Farms: The Bovine Route passes by several Swiss dairy farms, where hikers can often see cows grazing in the pastures. These farms produce some of the region’s famous cheeses.
• Pink Church of Trient: Trient is known for its distinctive pink church, which stands out against the alpine backdrop. The church is a landmark in the village and a popular spot for photography.

Things to Do

• Choose Your Adventure: Decide whether to take the Bovine Route for a more leisurely hike or the Fenêtre d’Arpette for a challenging adventure. The latter offers breathtaking views but requires good weather conditions and fitness.
• Picnic with a View: Pack a picnic lunch and enjoy it along the trail, especially if you take the Bovine Route, where the gentle pastures and expansive views provide a perfect setting.

Stage 9: Trient to Tre Le Champ (7km, 940m elevation gain)

Up until this point, we had enjoyed mostly fantastic weather. However, today the skies opened up, and the bad weather rolled in. As we climbed higher, the rain and wind intensified, and near the top, we were pelted with ice, hail, and sleet. The cold forced us to wear more layers and take fewer breaks, but that made us sweat more, which in turn made us colder.

Eventually, we reached the top, where all the hikers huddled inside a small restaurant to warm up. After lunch and several coffees, we decided to push on. By this time, Karen was already feeling sick from the past few days, so I made the call to take a ski lift down, skipping the long downhill section for both our health and safety.

And so, we were back in France. We reached Tre Le Champ, where we spent the night in a tent provided by the refuge. Despite the cold and rainy weather, I preferred this to the stories we heard the next day about people sleeping shoulder to shoulder inside. The tent offered much-needed privacy, even if it was a bit chilly. Overall, this was probably the least comfortable refuge—cold, cramped, and with mediocre food—but we met some fantastic new people.

While Karen rested, I made a quick run to the nearest town to find some medicine for her.

Refuge: Auberge la Boërne (tent) (45 euros per person, Half Board)

Highlights

• Mont Blanc Views: Enjoy sweeping views of Mont Blanc and the surrounding peaks as you hike through this stunning alpine region.
• Chamonix Valley Descent: The descent into the Chamonix Valley offers dramatic vistas and a sense of accomplishment as you return to France.
• Col de Balme: This stage includes the ascent to Col de Balme, at 2,191 meters (7,188 feet). The pass marks the border between Switzerland and France and offers stunning panoramic views of the Mont Blanc Massif and the Chamonix Valley.

Things to Do

• Enjoy Views from Col de Balme: Take time to soak in the breathtaking views from Col de Balme. This vantage point offers a spectacular panorama of the Mont Blanc Massif and the surrounding peaks.
• Explore Le Tour: As you approach Tré le Champ, consider a short detour to the village of Le Tour, which offers charming views and a chance to experience local culture.
• Relax at Refuge Col de Balme: Stop for a rest and refreshments at the Refuge Col de Balme, located near the summit.

Stage 10: Tre Le Champ to La Flégère (9km, 950m elevation gain)

Our second-to-last day was a big one, and thankfully, we were blessed with better weather. As always, we started the day with an uphill climb, rewarded by absolutely breathtaking views.

Then we reached the famous ladder section—a series of ladders that took much longer to climb than I expected. It sounds intimidating, but it wasn’t too bad. If I can do it with my fear of heights, I think anyone can. There was a bit of waiting as people moved slowly ahead and sometimes descended from the other side.

After the ladders, we made our way to the famous Mirror Lakes. This spot is very popular, attracting many day hikers, so be prepared for lots of tourists. We were lucky to find a perfect spot for lunch, enjoying the stunning reflections on the water and the surrounding views.

Although there is a refuge at the top, we chose to eat by the lake due to the long queues.

Finally, we reached La Flegere, our last refuge on the TMB. Perched on top of a hill, it offered spectacular views. Despite sharing a dorm with many people, reaching this point filled us with such a sense of accomplishment that nothing could bring us down. We reflected on our entire journey, marveling at the ups and downs, and found it hard to believe it would all be over the next day.

While many people take the cable car down to Chamonix from here, we decided to spend the night and finish the trail all the way to Les Houches.

Refuge: Refuge la Flegere (64 euros per person, Half Board)

Highlights

• Mont Blanc Massif Views: This stage offers some of the most breathtaking views of the Mont Blanc Massif, with its snow-capped peaks and dramatic glaciers.
• Chamonix Valley Vistas: As you approach La Flégère, enjoy sweeping vistas of the Chamonix Valley, with its vibrant forests and picturesque villages.
• Ladders Section: This stage features the famous ladders of the Aiguilles Rouges, a series of metal ladders and fixed ropes that assist hikers in navigating steep and rocky sections. The ladders provide a thrilling challenge and are a highlight for many adventurers.
• Aiguilles Rouges Nature Reserve: The trail passes through the Aiguilles Rouges Nature Reserve, known for its rich biodiversity and stunning views of Mont Blanc. The reserve offers a chance to see unique alpine flora and fauna in their natural habitat.
• La Flégère Ski Area: La Flégère is a popular ski area during the winter and offers a variety of outdoor activities in the summer, including hiking and rock climbing.

Things to Do

• Conquer the Ladders: Experience the thrill of climbing the iconic ladders on this stage. While they may seem daunting, they are well-secured and offer stunning views once you reach the top.
• Picnic with a View: Pack a picnic lunch and enjoy it at one of the scenic spots along the trail, such as Lac Blanc, which offers breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks and glaciers.
• Visit Lac Blanc: Consider a detour to Lac Blanc, a stunning alpine lake known for its crystal-clear waters and spectacular reflections of Mont Blanc.

Stage 11: La Flégère to Les Houches – Chamonix

Our last day on the Tour du Mont Blanc was a unique and emotional experience. Leaving the refuge, we were greeted with incredible views, and soon the trail became rocky. We even managed to spot some wildlife along the way. Navigating the rocky terrain led us to a very long downhill section. By the last day, the constant descent started giving us blisters.

Eventually, we made it back to Les Houches. Walking down the street, we were at a loss for words to describe the journey we had just completed.

We battled the weather, navigated technical trails, and dealt with unexpected challenges. Even looking back at the tough times on days two and three (flashbacks!), it’s those memories that will stay with us forever. They provided us with opportunities for growth and an incredible sense of accomplishment. We did it. Together. Crossing the finish line was an emotional moment, and we felt incredibly blessed to have shared this journey.

On our bus ride back to Chamonix, one question kept running through our minds: What now?

We treated ourselves to two nights in a gorgeous hotel in Chamonix, indulging in the sauna, jacuzzi, and even a bit of river rafting, relishing the post-hike bliss. In the back of our minds, we were already thinking of our next adventure.

The Tour Du Mont Blanc was an amazing adventure. We hope our journey inspires you to take on your own challenges and explore the world.

Highlights

• Mont Blanc Panoramas: This stage offers unparalleled views of Mont Blanc and the surrounding peaks, providing a fitting finale to your trek.
• Chamonix Valley: As you descend into the valley, enjoy views of the vibrant forests and picturesque villages that characterize this iconic alpine region.

Things to Do

• Enjoy the Grand Balcon Sud: Take your time on the Grand Balcon Sud to fully appreciate the panoramic views.
• Picnic at Planpraz: Stop at Planpraz for a picnic and enjoy the views of the Aiguille du Midi and Mont Blanc. The cable car station here also offers refreshments.

How Hard Is the Tour Du Mont Blanc?

The Tour Du Mont Blanc (TMB) demands a good level of fitness and stamina but does not require technical climbing skills. Trail conditions can be challenging, with potential for rapid weather changes, including rain and snow at higher altitudes. Mental resilience is crucial, as the trek is physically and emotionally demanding. With adequate preparation, training, and acclimatization, the TMB is achievable for experienced hikers and fit beginners, offering breathtaking scenery and a rewarding sense of accomplishment.

How to Train for the Tour Du Mont Blanc?

Training for the Tour Du Mont Blanc (TMB) is crucial for a safe and enjoyable trek. Living in a flat country like the Netherlands, we had to get creative with our training regimen. Here’s how we prepared:

Running and Cycling: We incorporated 30–60-minute sessions of running and cycling at least three times a week. These activities helped build our cardiovascular endurance.

Gym Workouts:

• Stairmaster and Treadmill: We used these machines to simulate hills and get used to climbing uphill.
• Leg Strength: We focused on exercises like squats, lunges, and step-ups to build leg muscles, essential for tackling the TMB’s steep terrain.
• Core and Stability: We strengthened our core with planks, Russian twists, and balance exercises to improve stability and reduce injury risk on uneven trails.

Walks with Pack Weight: We trained with a backpack simulating the weight we’d carry on the trail, gradually increasing the load to prepare for carrying gear.

Stretching: Regular stretching improved our flexibility and reduced the risk of injury.

In an ideal training scenario, we’d also recommend the following:

Hiking: Start with short hikes and gradually increase the distance and elevation gain. Aim for hikes of 10–15 miles with significant elevation changes to mimic the conditions on the TMB.

Terrain Training: If possible, practice on varied terrains, including rocky paths and inclines. This helps prepare for the diverse conditions you’ll encounter on the TMB.

What Accommodations are on the Tour Du Mont Blanc?

When it comes to resting your weary legs after a day of conquering mountain trails, the Tour Du Mont Blanc offers a range of accommodation options to suit every kind of adventurer. Whether you’re craving comfort, camaraderie, or just a good old-fashioned night under the stars, you’ll find something that fits the bill.

Types of Accommodation

After a day of conquering mountain trails, the Tour Du Mont Blanc (TMB) offers a variety of accommodations to suit every adventurer’s preference. Whether you seek comfort, camaraderie, or a night under the stars, there’s something for everyone.

Mountain Refuges (Huts)

Spend the night in a cozy alpine refuge, where you can share stories and laughs with fellow hikers over a hearty meal. These mountain huts are integral to the TMB experience, featuring dormitory-style bunk beds, communal dining, and rustic charm. They’re perfect for meeting other trekkers and picking up trail tips. Remember to pack earplugs—bunkmates can snore like a grizzly!

Hotels and Guesthouses

For those who prefer a touch of luxury, hotels and guesthouses along the TMB provide a comfortable escape from the trail. After tackling steep inclines, there’s nothing like relaxing in a plush bed and indulging in a warm shower. Many hotels offer regional cuisine, allowing you to refuel with local specialties. Booking in advance is wise, especially if you want a room with a view.

Campsites

Camping is perfect for the adventurous soul seeking a connection with nature. The TMB has campsites where you can pitch a tent under the starry skies, waking up to the serene sounds of the Alps and a front-row seat to the sunrise. Be sure to carry your own gear and familiarize yourself with local camping regulations to avoid surprises.

Bivouac

For the ultimate adventurer, bivouacking—essentially free camping—is an option for the bold and self-sufficient. Set up camp where it’s legal and safe, typically at higher elevations or away from designated areas. The thrill of bivouacking lies in its freedom, but always leave no trace and respect nature. Check local regulations to ensure compliance and avoid disturbing protected areas.

How Much Does It Cost to Hike the Tour Du Mont Blanc?

Hiking the Tour Du Mont Blanc (TMB) is a dream adventure for many, and understanding the costs involved can help you plan your budget for this unforgettable journey. While expenses can vary based on personal preferences, here’s a general breakdown of what to expect, excluding flights and extra tours:

Accommodation Costs

• Mountain Refuges (Huts): Refuges offer dormitory-style accommodation and communal meals, providing a budget-friendly and social experience. Cost: €40 to €70 per night, including dinner and breakfast.
• Hotels and Guesthouses: Private rooms with en-suite bathrooms offer more comfort and privacy than refuges. Cost: €80 to €150 per night, depending on location and comfort.
• Camping: A budget-friendly option requiring your own gear, with basic facilities like showers and restrooms. Cost: €10 to €20 per night for a campsite.
  • Note: This does mean that your pack weight will be heavier as you need to bring your tent, sleeping bags, cooking gear, etc.

Food and Dining Costs

• Meals at Refuges: Communal dinners with hearty regional dishes perfect for post-hike refueling. Cost: Included in accommodation price (half-board); lunches €10 to €15 if separate.
• Restaurants and Cafés: Enjoy local specialties like raclette and fondue in villages along the TMB. Cost: €10 to €25 per meal.
• Self-Catering: Preparing your own meals can reduce costs; most villages have shops for supplies. Cost: €5 to €15 per day for groceries.
• Snacks and Drinks:
  • Water: Free from most mountain streams but consider a filter or purification tablets.
  • Snacks: €5 to €10 per day for energy bars, nuts, and chocolate. Can be bought at refuges or in towns as you pass through.
  • Beers and Wine: €5 to €10 each, often available at refuges and restaurants.

Transportation Costs

• Getting to and from the TMB: Includes trains, buses, and shuttles to trailheads like Les Houches, Courmayeur, or Chamonix. Cost: €50 to €150, depending on your starting point.

Other Costs

• Insurance: Covers medical emergencies, cancellations, and gear loss or theft. Cost: €50 to €150.

What Gear Will You Need on the Tour Du Mont Blanc?

Preparing the right kit for the Tour Du Mont Blanc (TMB) is crucial for a successful and enjoyable hiking experience. The trail takes you through varied terrains and weather conditions, so packing wisely ensures you’re ready for anything the Alps might throw your way.

Here’s a comprehensive guide to the essential gear and clothing we used on the TMB.

Clothing

1. Base Layers:
   • Moisture-Wicking T-Shirts: 2-3 breathable and quick-drying shirts.
   • Long-Sleeve Shirt: Useful for cooler mornings and evenings or when you need sun protection.
2. Insulating Layers:
   • Fleece or Down Jacket: Essential for warmth during chilly mornings and at higher elevations.
   • Lightweight Sweater: An additional layer for when temperatures drop unexpectedly.
3. Outer Layers:
   • Waterproof and Windproof Jacket: A good quality, packable rain jacket is essential for unpredictable weather.
   • Waterproof Trousers: Lightweight and easily packable for rain or windy conditions.
4. Trekking Trousers and Shorts:
   • Convertible Pants: Versatile options that can convert to shorts if needed.
   • Hiking Shorts: Comfortable for warmer days. We used these on most days.
5. Accessories:
   • Sun Hat: Protects against sun exposure at higher altitudes.
   • Warm Hat and Gloves: Important for cold mornings and evenings.
   • Buff or Neck Gaiter: Multipurpose protection against wind and sun.

Footwear

1. Hiking Boots vs Hiking Shoes:
   • Hiking Shoes: At the end, we chose hiking shoes as we had a light backpack. If using a heavier backpack I would go for hiking boots.
2. Hiking Socks:
   • Moisture-Wicking Wool or Synthetic Socks: At least 3 pairs to keep your feet dry and comfortable.
3. Camp Shoes:
   • Lightweight Sandals or Flip-Flops: Essential for refuges and also nice for relaxing at the end of the day and giving your feet a break from hiking boots or shoes.

Gear

1. Backpack:
   • Size: A 40-liter pack is generally sufficient for carrying daily essentials (especially when staying in refuges).
   • Features: Ensure it has a rain cover and a comfortable fit with adjustable straps.
2. Trekking Poles:
   • Adjustable and Lightweight: Useful for stability on steep and uneven sections of the trail.
3. Sleeping Bag Liner:
   • Lightweight and Compact: A summer-weight sleeping bag or liner for extra comfort in a mountain hut. It is required in most mountain huts.
4. Water Bottle or Hydration System:
   • Capacity: Aim for at least 2 liters. Hydration is crucial at higher altitudes. We never used our filter system – but its always good to have!
5. Map and Compass or GPS Device:
   • Navigation: Even though the TMB is well-marked, having a map or GPS device is essential for route planning and safety. We downloaded our maps with AllTrails to our phones and my Garmin watch. This is essential if you want to do any of the variants.
6. Headlamp:
   • With Extra Batteries: For early starts, late arrivals, or power outages in accommodations.
7. First Aid Kit:
   • Essentials: Band-aids, blister pads, antiseptic wipes, painkillers, and any personal medications.
8. Personal Items:
   • Toiletries: Travel-sized essentials and biodegradable soap.
   • Sunscreen and Lip Balm: High SPF to protect against the strong alpine sun.
9. Food and Snacks:
   • Energy Bars and Trail Mix: High-energy snacks for on-the-go fueling.

Optional Items

• Camera or Smartphone: Capture the stunning scenery and memories along the way. We also used a GoPro and a Drone.
• Ear Plugs and Eye Mask: Helpful for sleeping in dormitory-style accommodations.
• Journal or Book: For downtime and recording your experiences. We enjoyed our Kindles and ear pods for audiobooks and podcasts.
• Portable Charger: To keep electronic devices powered. Most refuges have places to charge your devices. Just make sure you have the right adapter if coming outside of the EU!

Our Personal Tips for Hiking the Tour Du Mont Blanc